Casting 2-Part Resin

by: Steve Rivas

 Before you cast you obviously need a mold. You can build a Rubber Latex Molds, a RTV Silicon Mold, or a smaller RTV Head Mold depending on your needs. All three can be cast in essentially the same way. This casting portion of my article is based on using CR-300 casting resin from micro mark (no they are not paying me…) This is a good resin, cures with no odor, cures hard, white, paintable, sandable….

I’ve heard that “catsin’ craft” is an ideal clear casing resin for clear casts and you can buy dyes for it to make spirit figs and even lightsabers (castin’ craft is available at hobby store and maybe even wal mart). Other resins I’ve
heard of are epoxy resins, por-a-kast II, as well as smooth-cast 300. I’ve never tried any of these items. so what is available to you and cost effective for your purposes depends entirely on you, you choose and decide what’s best. Feel free to email me with any questions and/or advice on any of the terms, items, procedure I’ve written about or even on choosing a resin that’s best for you.

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Supplies

  • Safety Glasses
  • Rubber Gloves
  • Leather Gloves
  • Sturdy Work Table
  • Dusk Mask / Respirator
  • Bandages

Step 1

This resin also comes in two parts. Gently shake bottles. Mix them equally in stir cup and mix thoroughly (but QUICKLY: the 300 resin cures in about 10 minutes but starts to harden in about 2 minutes) VERY IMPORTANT: Use a pair of “turkey basters”, syringes, large medicine droppers, or pipettes to extract the two different resins from the bottles. Just fill ‘them up and hold ‘them together to see if you have equal amounts of the resins. Equal amount mixing is VERY important for this resin, if you don’t have equal amounts your cast will come out soft and slimy and may not even cure at all. Also use an empty bubble (from a carded figure that’s been opened) to place the bottles in, one in each empty bubble and keep you baster with it in the bottle. For the reason of: the resins can be very tacky and thick and can make a real mess. The bubble is just to keep all the mess contained. (But they must be contained individually not together or you may have some unwanted curing of the resins)! Or just make up your own method of mixing resins, you could follow the directions it comes with (I didn’t because it seems to use up too many stir cups, I like to pour both resins straight into one cup but this is difficult to measure (therefore I use the syringe/’turkey baster item to make sure I have an equal amount of resin in each syringe/baster).

Step 2

After the resin is mixed EQUALLY and thoroughly, pour it in to the mold.

Step 3

Use the paper clip method to remove air bubbles: Get a paper clip, straighten it out and bend the tip a little. Dip and scrape along the inside of the mold (especially on the detail parts, eyes, nose, chin, these are air bubble prone spots) to remove air bubbles. (Again, do this QUICKLY before the resin starts to harden on you).

Step 4

After resin cures push and pull on the liquid latex rubber mold to get the cast out from the mold. For the RTV rubber, simply pull the mold gently apart and just easily take out the cast.