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> First attempts with Dremel, Finally a new first for me...
Andy
post Aug 3 2010, 10:29 AM
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This weekend I bought a Dremel. The 4.8v cordless. I finally bite the bullet and tried to hollow out an older peg head to fit the newer ball joints. And pleasantly surprised myself with SUCCESS! graduated.gif I almost could have poo.gif myself with excitement. I grabbed two more heads and started cutting and hollowing! I have a little talent there! I will still have to get a feel for the dremel and buy some accessories for smooth filing/buffing. Any suggestions on the best pieces for the very fine smoothing and sanding? I know all of the dremel parts have specific numbers. I want to get pictures as soon as I can to show my first attempts.
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meandnooneelse
post Aug 3 2010, 10:56 AM
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Congrats buddy! There is a thread around here somewhere that was discussing dremel bits for hollowing. I know it helped me a lot. I'll see if I can find it and post a link.

EDIT:

Here is where I posted several links about this subject to Kaje's thread:

QUOTE (meandnooneelse @ Jul 22 2010, 09:54 AM) *
Here are some more links that will help you with ball jointing heads.

http://www.ffurg.com/FForums/index.php?showtopic=3829

http://www.trigatecreations.com/forum/index.php?topic=1451.0

http://www.ffurg.com/FForums/index.php?showtopic=4357

The second link is a picture tutorial on this process.


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pbarny
post Aug 3 2010, 11:23 AM
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I use a series of steps. I use drill bits to take out large chunks. You can put a piece of tape over the bit to act as a stop. Next I believe in using smaller cutters than others. The smaller the cutter, the finer material removed, so slightly smoother. However the trade off here is due to small size, means higher speeds needed. I'm also not afraid to finalize any hollowing using a small countersinking bit on the drill again.


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Andy
post Aug 3 2010, 08:26 PM
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I used pretty much the same tips that are in the links. I bought a couple of drill bits but didn't use them. I bought a ball drill (?) about the size of a smaller neck ball joint. I used a utility blade to remove the nech post and the cut away along the jaw line like the newer heads are, almost a "^" shape from the sides. Then I used that ball to drill into the "^", and just kind of made circular motions as I drilled. I would stop and check it on a test body, then repeat until I had it where I liked the fit. I feel so empowered! This is going to open up more in my imagination. Now if only I could find a way to deal with the sticky paint issue. I also got brave last week to pull apart some of the newer type figures with so much articulation. I did it to three figures and only lost one arm. But it was a Darth Maul who loses body parts anyway.

I saw also in the above links a cure for heads too big for the ball joint by using the hot glue. That solves another issue I was having with head swaps. My first thought was "hot glue doesn't hold much of anything together", and then the part about the more permenant stuff was mentioned. I have a solution for the hot glue to make it stay better in the head when turning it on the joint: I can use the tiny drill bits from the Dremel to make a few holes inside the head so the hot glue also fill into those, so it will be less likely to get lose inside he head!
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meandnooneelse
post Aug 4 2010, 11:07 AM
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QUOTE (Andy @ Aug 3 2010, 09:26 PM) *
Now if only I could find a way to deal with the sticky paint issue.
Sounds like you're using enamels. Switch to acrylics. I suggest Testors Model Masters. You can get it at your local Hobby Lobby in the models section. Just make sure you check each bottle that you buy to be sure it's acrylic and not enamel. Sometimes the the enamels get mistakenly put in the acrylic rack. Enamels don't play well with PVC plastics. They may seem fine at first, but eventually will become sticky.

The Official Paint Discussion Thread


QUOTE (Andy @ Aug 3 2010, 09:26 PM) *
I also got brave last week to pull apart some of the newer type figures with so much articulation. I did it to three figures and only lost one arm. But it was a Darth Maul who loses body parts anyway.
Which version of Maul? What was your process? Did you heat the figure first?


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Proud Member Of The CSOTC (Customize Something Other Than Clones) Society!

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pbarny
post Aug 4 2010, 12:32 PM
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QUOTE (meandnooneelse @ Aug 4 2010, 11:07 AM) *
Sounds like you're using enamels. Switch to acrylics. I suggest Testors Model Masters. You can get it at your local Hobby Lobby in the models section. Just make sure you check each bottle that you buy to be sure it's acrylic and not enamel. Sometimes the the enamels get mistakenly put in the acrylic rack. Enamels don't play well with PVC plastics. They may seem fine at first, but eventually will become sticky.

The Official Paint Discussion Thread


Which version of Maul? What was your process? Did you heat the figure first?


Probably a shirtless maul. They're the Star Wars version of SE/SS/CC/Duke releases. graduated.gif


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Paul
My Blog, Pics and More
Customs Blog
Add Yoursel to MY MAP
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Now, it seems that I have to remind DnJCustoms and Everyone else about the upcoming Casting Calls.
FFURG Forums Casting Call: Classic Trilogy in Clone Wars Style
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Andy
post Aug 4 2010, 05:50 PM
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The only enamels I use are fingernail polish and they don't get sticky on me. I use acrylics, but it might be the clear coat I used AFTER the paint. I don't remember what it was now since I had used it all up a while back. And only some figures that were coated the same way get sticky, some don't. The plastic that the arms and legs are made of mostly get tacky. The hard plastics stay okay. Model Masters I have not tried. My closest Hobby Lobby is an hour from here, so I don't get there very often. I'll have to plan a stop next time in I'm going that way. But back to the plastics, the newer figures are very bendable plastic, almost rubber-like. I find that paint doesn't stick as well to it.

I am not sure which Maul it was. It had peg arms that only round but was articulated at at least on of the elbows. Has bendable knees. He wasn't shirtless, though. I boiled him, but maybe just not long enough. I had boiled and popped before, just not the 15 point articulates. They had cost more so I was nervous to even try. The Maul loss wasn't great, I only wanted his head. I may end up trying to use his pelvis/legs since they are already solid black.
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